…the views were so incredible I didn’t even feel the 3 hours passing. Observing the landscape was like watching a movie.
After finally reaching eastern Iceland, it was just as I’d imagined – peaceful and a bit isolated. We found a wooden birdwatching hut in the middle of nowhere and cooked some food. After wandering around for a bit, we made love on the softest grass up on a hill. We drove for quite a while after that through and around the fjords.
We woke up quite early, ate black bean pasta with beans and tomato sauce for breakfast; the weather was a bit depressing. Just as an elderly man we met earlier advised us, we made our way to the highlands because apparently one of the roads guiding there wasn’t an F road (in the ‘useful information’ section I explain what that is).
It was warmer and less windy. Hengifoss was our next waterfall on the list although it wasn’t as spectacular as the previous ones we had seen. The walk there, however, was a really pleasant one. We even got to see a baby lamb up close. In the afternoon we drove hours and hours up north, stopping in Borgarfjordur Eystri on the way (a town famous for its puffins ).
That night we reached a truly idyllic campsite. The drive was just beautiful, especially in the evening light. The kitchen and toilets were turf houses and in general, the place was magic.
While sitting down to our meal we realised that we had left our new action camera and tripod about 300km away. No way it was still there, and we were a day behind on our plan. All we could do was cheer up ourselves with some hot chocolate in the tent.
Dettifoss- the most impressive waterfall yet. It was the windiest place I had ever been to. We also saw Hverir and Krafla, but to be honest it was impossible to enjoy the views with sand blowing aggressively in our faces. We were running out of petrol but luckily Myvatn was just a few minutes away. We spent the rest of the day in Myvatn Nature Baths – a smaller, less expensive version of the Blue Lagoon.
At 8 pm we drove to Godafoss- another waterfall that stole my heart. Paweł drove until 4 am but I nodded off long before that time…
The next morning, I found ourselves inside the tent – Paweł had set it up a few hours before and woke me up to move me there. I had no idea what day it was. Our faces were swollen and eyes puffy. So many days sleeping on the cold ground had me craving for a warm bed with clean sheets. At least we got ourselves a treat and had expensive vegan wraps for breakfast at the petrol station.
The weather was getting us down a bit and the surroundings were boring. We found a campsite where we sneaked in and cooked our lunch in an empty kitchen.
And then we were finally there – the west fjords.
- I can’t recommend this idyllic campsite enough – Camping Tjaldstæďi
- The puffins – we actually saw them. And plenty of them too! They were much smaller than I imagined. Borgarfjörður Eystri, among many places around Iceland, is where you’ll definitely find them in June and July. Their nesting season starts from late April until September, so you might have luck and spot them during that time too. Be aware that the drive there is long and bumpy!
- Eastern Iceland is quite empty – whenever you see a supermarket, go in there and buy everything you might need because you don’t know when the next one will appear
- The east is a good area to just wander and get lost. Explore and take your time, especially if the weather allows it
- F-roads are mountain roads in the highlands. You will see ‘F’ in front of the number of the road on maps. It’s forbidden to drive on these roads unless you rent a 4×4 car. Keep in mind that they are more expensive.
The next part of the Iceland Diaries will be coming very soon! What’s the one thing you’d like to see the most in Iceland? If you’ve already been there, what was your favourite place? Let me know in the comments below and I’ll get back to you :).
Here are some more pictures for you, enjoy!